Forbidden Tech
-
This post did not contain any content.
-
There are voltage converters (230V<->120V) that have female connectors in both ends. So if DIY guys are playing with tech from other continents.
Any serious DIY person can just splice an extra male plug onto a cord faster than driving to the store and reading this sign.
-
There are voltage converters (230V<->120V) that have female connectors in both ends. So if DIY guys are playing with tech from other continents.
I don't understand why it would have female on both ends?
-
My friend's house does this with their generator. There is a lockout on the breaker, and the main must be off to move it and open the one that feeds the back porch where they tie the generator in. Once the breakers are cycled, they can plug the generator into the outlet on the porch, and it runs there, sheltered from the weather. When the main power is working again, they turn off the generator, remove the cord, disable the breaker, toggle the lockout bar, and turn the main back on. The particular outlet on the porch is useless when using grid power because of this setup.
So if it's only for the generator, why is it wired as an outlet, not an inlet?
-
This shit post is shit
Task failed successfully
-
Holy shit, does that work?
I'm only familiar with having a generator properly wired into the house system at the panel, not some electrical Uno Reverse.
If you have to ask, don't do it.
The proper way to connect a generator is with a breaker panel interlock. This gives you a circuit breaker for the main, grid power; a second breaker for the generator; and an interlock device that only allows one of those two breakers to be active at any given time.
Trying to use a suicide cable can get power into the house; disconnecting the main breaker would prevent the generator from back feeding the grid. However, the circuit you are plugging the breaker into is only rated to 15 or 20 amps, and you're backfeeding it with a lot more. You can easily overload this circuit without actually blowing a breaker.
There's other problems as well: your house wiring is designed for two opposing hot, 110v phases. These are combined to provide 220v power to major appliances. Improperly backfeeding your wiring can potentially damage those major appliances.
You are better off with a nice, heavy-duty extension cord than a half-assed suicide cable.
-
Joke’s on them I can make one myself
But the paper said you shouldn't
-
Holy shit, does that work?
I'm only familiar with having a generator properly wired into the house system at the panel, not some electrical Uno Reverse.
wrote on last edited by [email protected]It does, but it's super dangerous to do unless you have it wired up properly. Proper installations will use a special connector so you can't plug anything else into that receptical, and will have it interlocked against the main breaker - you can't plug anything in without disconnecting from the grid. The dangers of doing it amateur-hour are:
- You now have a cable that you can unplug and have live ends exposed - which if you don't realize is connected to an active generator is super dangerous, and even if you do one slip and you are now the ground conductor
- If you connect the generator while still connected to the grid, your generator is almost certainly going to be out of phase. This will probably cause damage to your generator and anything else plugged in at the time
- If you don't have an interlock and run the generator while connected to the grid (say during a power outage) you will be back-feeding power into the grid. This is super dangerous for anyone coming to fix the outage, as things that they've isolated to fix can still end up being live
Note that this interlock is also required if you have solar - although it's usually in the form of an automatic breaker that will disconnect and put the circuit into "island mode" if it detects a loss of grid supply
-
Holy shit, does that work?
I'm only familiar with having a generator properly wired into the house system at the panel, not some electrical Uno Reverse.
I did it last week. We were out of power for about 30 hours. But I actually have a degree in Computer Engineering, and I did it with a friend who is a professional Electrician.
It is indeed EXTREMELY dangerous. If you don't know what you're doing, or make a mistake, best case scenario, you fry your generator. Worst case, you electrocute a lineman from the power company, who isn't expecting lines to be live when there's an outage, because yes, if you feed power into your house, that will flow OUT of your house onto the main lines (to some extent), if you let it. You could end up trying to power your whole block on your little gas generator.
We made sure both the indoor and outdoor main power shutoffs for the house were turned off, as well as all breakers. Then we unplugged the oven, and used that for the feed from the generator. Then we gradually re-activated breakers so as not to add too much load to the generator at once. Ultimately, we were able to run the whole house, except for the AC compressor, which the generator actually would have had enough power to run, but not to kick-start.
The proper way to hook up a generator to feed your house is to install an "inlet" which is both nominatively and physically the opposite of an outlet: instead of holes going into a box, you have prongs sticking out of a box. Generally, it'll be one of the big fat 4-pronged round cables, like what your oven might use. That'll feed down to a large double-breaker, in the top-right slot of your breaker panel. That breaker stays off until you want to run a generator, and, to meet code, you have to also install a special bracket that prevents you from turning this breaker off without turning off the primary feed for the whole house. Still kinda dangerous, but they make those brackets surprisingly foolproof.
-
This post did not contain any content.
What would they even be used for except to short a circuit?
-
This post did not contain any content.
They cant stop you from buying heat shrink and wire strippers. Don't let nothing hold you back
-
This post did not contain any content.
My granpa once assigned a master electrician to make an extension cord after he accidently cut the cable of his hedge trimmer. The electrician built him a male2male cord with the female part on the machine. My granpa almost got electrocuted.
‍
️ -
I have a 50’ (15.25 m) extension electrical cord on a wind-up reel.
It has a separate 10’ (3m) cord from the reel hub, to plug into the wall outlet.All I want is a way to plug it into the wall and be able to unreel it as I work, without that 10’ section getting all twisted. Kind of like a phone cord detangler (pic below), or the brake cable detangler/gyro on BMX stunt bikes.
I was trying to think of a way to make one but apparently it’s a “dangerous fire hazard” or whatever.
Get a regular extension cord, find the mid-point, and feed it through the rollerdrum or duct-tape it on. Roll the cord onto the drum such that both ends are being rolled in the same direction. When finished, you will have a male and female connector readily available from the end of the drum, and uncoiling it will give you an equal length of both sides.
-
What would they even be used for except to short a circuit?
I will just regurgitate what I've heard. I think they are used in case power goes out and you have a generator. You need to disconnect from the power grid first, but it should then allow you to power tour house with the generator. It sounds more like a US thing.
-
In North America, Christmas lights usually have a plug end and a socket end so you can connect multiple strings together in series.
If you accidentally put the plug end at the top of the tree, it might be tempting to try to buy or make one of these cords so you don't have to take the lights down and redo them.
It is as dumb and lazy as it sounds.
So if I understand it correctly, if you were to use this "solution", you'd leave live exposed prongs on one end of the lights, right?
Cause that would make it even dumber than I had imagined lmao
-
What would they even be used for except to short a circuit?
The only time I've ever seen one in use was a friend that had a shed that was powered with lights etc. He had an external plug box on the shed, and would use one of these to jumper from his extension cord to that external plug. It worked, but I shuddered when I saw it.
-
I did it last week. We were out of power for about 30 hours. But I actually have a degree in Computer Engineering, and I did it with a friend who is a professional Electrician.
It is indeed EXTREMELY dangerous. If you don't know what you're doing, or make a mistake, best case scenario, you fry your generator. Worst case, you electrocute a lineman from the power company, who isn't expecting lines to be live when there's an outage, because yes, if you feed power into your house, that will flow OUT of your house onto the main lines (to some extent), if you let it. You could end up trying to power your whole block on your little gas generator.
We made sure both the indoor and outdoor main power shutoffs for the house were turned off, as well as all breakers. Then we unplugged the oven, and used that for the feed from the generator. Then we gradually re-activated breakers so as not to add too much load to the generator at once. Ultimately, we were able to run the whole house, except for the AC compressor, which the generator actually would have had enough power to run, but not to kick-start.
The proper way to hook up a generator to feed your house is to install an "inlet" which is both nominatively and physically the opposite of an outlet: instead of holes going into a box, you have prongs sticking out of a box. Generally, it'll be one of the big fat 4-pronged round cables, like what your oven might use. That'll feed down to a large double-breaker, in the top-right slot of your breaker panel. That breaker stays off until you want to run a generator, and, to meet code, you have to also install a special bracket that prevents you from turning this breaker off without turning off the primary feed for the whole house. Still kinda dangerous, but they make those brackets surprisingly foolproof.
except for the AC compressor, which the generator actually would have had enough power to run, but not to kick-start.
This sentence triggered my PTSD. Imagine, if you will, a world where executives insist that datacenter AC be put on UPS battery. A world where those same executives declare that a different datacenter is just fine running at 95% power capacity because "it's not 100%." A world where inrush current does not exist. Except it does exist, but all professional advice is ignored until there are consequences. And even after such consequences are realized, one of those same executives still tries to run his home sump pump off of a desktop UPS during a power outage, pops it immediately, then goes and gets another from the office, which also pops immediately.
The sign in OP's post will always be relevant somewhere.
-
They cant stop you from buying heat shrink and wire strippers. Don't let nothing hold you back
Nothing can hold me back. Because I am stuck in place by the electricity coursing through my body.
-
If you have to ask, don't do it.
The proper way to connect a generator is with a breaker panel interlock. This gives you a circuit breaker for the main, grid power; a second breaker for the generator; and an interlock device that only allows one of those two breakers to be active at any given time.
Trying to use a suicide cable can get power into the house; disconnecting the main breaker would prevent the generator from back feeding the grid. However, the circuit you are plugging the breaker into is only rated to 15 or 20 amps, and you're backfeeding it with a lot more. You can easily overload this circuit without actually blowing a breaker.
There's other problems as well: your house wiring is designed for two opposing hot, 110v phases. These are combined to provide 220v power to major appliances. Improperly backfeeding your wiring can potentially damage those major appliances.
You are better off with a nice, heavy-duty extension cord than a half-assed suicide cable.
Lol, not going to do it. Been mildly electrocuted too many times to mess around with something like this.
More so curious about the physics here, but I see it's basically a roll of the dice that it does work and doesnt just fry everything.
-
What would they even be used for except to short a circuit?
Some genius won't pay attention to the orientation of a christmas light display while he's putting them up, he'll go to plug them in, and they'll be the wrong way, so he'll want an "adapter."
