Loophole
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Can you break up the calibrating process into shorter steps? I'm mostly unfamiliar with 3D printing, what's all involved?
wrote last edited by [email protected]Kinda, but they all need to be done before I can start printing again. I replaced the entire hot-end, so I basically have to redo everything:
- Rotation distance (distance traveled per one rotation of motor)
- Hot-end PID calibration (controls heating)
- Z-offset (how far above the bed the nozzle is from when the z-stop triggers)
- Resonance compensation (printing fast can cause ghosting in the prints from resonance frequency)
- Pressure advance (reduces nozzle ooze)
And all of that is just so I can print a mount to use a magnetic z-stop (normal is contact probe), then I get to do it all over again.
Then I need to do temperature and acceleration towers for each filament material.
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I just burn out in all of them, resulting in fear of trying new things, and bam, the nicest ⅓ of my life expectancy is gone.
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Didn't work. Now have 50 unfinished projects. Help.
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I've been trying (off and on) for a year now to finish a book. I wrote the book toward one specific end, of course, and when I got to the end, I don't like the ending anymore. I haven't been able to come up with an ending I like, so, it just sits for weeks or months until I take another stab at it. I don't know if I'll ever finish it, but I feel like I shouldn't start another book until I finish this one. I'm glad it's just a hobby.
Don't be like me.
As a hobby, I started making a music album some time around year 2003. During the next four years I accumulated several hundreds drafts and 16 nearly finished tracks, that only needed the final polish. Then I got stuck. I never did finish one single track.I was stuck like that for almost ten years. It wasn't until 2016 that I decided to cut the finished tracks down to 7 and publish them as they were, just to close the book and get it out of my system.
I stopped doing music for some years and all the old drafts are archived on old hard drives somewhere in the basement.
All I have to show is the published album. The ideas still exists in my head, and maybe I can use some of those, but I don't think any of the material is worth resurrecting to work on.I finally feel free to start a new project. As a matter of fact, I just did that two weeks ago and finished the first track within the same week, of which the majority happened in a single night.
Sure, there are things I think I could improve, but I have decided not to attempt it. It's done as it is. It's more important to move forward than to attempt to perfect something that can never be perfect.Imagine if you actually managed to write the perfect ending. How the hell would you ever be able to write another book?
My advice would be to write two endings. Pick the least awful one and then publish it, so you can clear your head and start a new book.
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Kinda, but they all need to be done before I can start printing again. I replaced the entire hot-end, so I basically have to redo everything:
- Rotation distance (distance traveled per one rotation of motor)
- Hot-end PID calibration (controls heating)
- Z-offset (how far above the bed the nozzle is from when the z-stop triggers)
- Resonance compensation (printing fast can cause ghosting in the prints from resonance frequency)
- Pressure advance (reduces nozzle ooze)
And all of that is just so I can print a mount to use a magnetic z-stop (normal is contact probe), then I get to do it all over again.
Then I need to do temperature and acceleration towers for each filament material.
Must the magnetic z-stop mount be printed on your machine specifically?
If yes; do a calibration step or two each week and you'll be done by xmas
If no; print one at a local makerspace/public library then do a calibration step or two each week and you'll be done by Thanksgiving!
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Kinda, but they all need to be done before I can start printing again. I replaced the entire hot-end, so I basically have to redo everything:
- Rotation distance (distance traveled per one rotation of motor)
- Hot-end PID calibration (controls heating)
- Z-offset (how far above the bed the nozzle is from when the z-stop triggers)
- Resonance compensation (printing fast can cause ghosting in the prints from resonance frequency)
- Pressure advance (reduces nozzle ooze)
And all of that is just so I can print a mount to use a magnetic z-stop (normal is contact probe), then I get to do it all over again.
Then I need to do temperature and acceleration towers for each filament material.
wrote last edited by [email protected]that touch sensor is very good to make sure you don't need to calibrate z offset. saves you from having to fiddle with it, and always makes perfect 1st layers. excellent upgrade.
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This actually works for me. I will add another level though, sometimes instead of going back to the original project I start it over again because of something I learned in the second project giving me a better approach to the first. Mostly do this with programming
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huh I think I have been unconsciously using this and it actually works, somewhat...
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Didn't work. Now have 50 unfinished projects. Help.
I'll help you, but I started helping someone else.
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that touch sensor is very good to make sure you don't need to calibrate z offset. saves you from having to fiddle with it, and always makes perfect 1st layers. excellent upgrade.
You mean the PINDA touch sensor?
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Must the magnetic z-stop mount be printed on your machine specifically?
If yes; do a calibration step or two each week and you'll be done by xmas
If no; print one at a local makerspace/public library then do a calibration step or two each week and you'll be done by Thanksgiving!
I mean, it doesn't have to be, but printing upgrades for your printer is part of the fun. But my job does have a maker space I could use.
Honestly the calibration would only take an hour or so, I just have to get around to it. The longest part will be setting up Klipper on my pi4 to replace the less powerful ODROID I'm currently using, because I plan on starting from scratch with the config.
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You mean the PINDA touch sensor?
yes, or others. there are probably better alternatives but this will already help a lot.
