any advice on buying a window AC unit?
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We have to buy a window unit for our house. We have Central AC but it's not keeping up and we can't afford to upsize it right now. So until then I'm researching which window units to buy. Any advice or anything to cut through all the marketing spam and AI copy that I have to wade thru?
Look for a high SEER, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seasonal_energy_efficiency_ratio
Window AC can be much cheaper to operate than central even if the window unit is less efficient, since it's cooling just one room instead of the whole house.
Where I am, we've had some quite hot days (100 degrees but not much above that so far) and I haven't had to use the AC yet, because it's still pretty cool out at night and the house stays cool enough during the day. That might change if it starts getting hot at night.
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It seems the recall for the mold was essentially forgetting to put a drain for excessesive condensate.
I havnt gotten a response yet. Did you get a response from them? Sucks that unit is awesome. And quiet. I thought it was funny they didn't leave condensate tap to run a drain. I kinda assumed they figured out how to evaporate it in away like a refrigerator. They are made really well otherwise and have great user controls. Even the mounting bracket are next level.I don't have one of that type, so I haven't contacted them. I was thinking about getting a unit like that, but then found out why they weren't in stock anywhere.
I think the lack of drain was intentional so that the water wiuld splash up on the condenser coil. An AC unit generates a lot more water than a refrigerator though, so I think any design with a condensate basin below the condenser coil will have mold problems. The other issue is they didn't make the unit very serviceable, so opening it up to clean out mold sounds like a huge hassle. Draining the water away will mean the units won't be as efficient as originally designed, but mold can be a major health hazard.
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Well most of the world lives in apartments where only floor* units are an option so they do exactly what they should. Ofc it's less efficient if the hose is uninsulated. But that's fixed with 20bucks and some tape
While insulation helps, it's fundamentally less efficient because the heat sync is inside the building and insulation isn't foolproof. And often these units are made of plastic, so they leak more heat into the house from the chassis than you'd expect. Even the best hose is less efficient than a window unit where the entire heat sync is outside the building
So while $20 and some duct tape helps a great deal, it definitely won't be as efficient as a window unit
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We have to buy a window unit for our house. We have Central AC but it's not keeping up and we can't afford to upsize it right now. So until then I'm researching which window units to buy. Any advice or anything to cut through all the marketing spam and AI copy that I have to wade thru?
I read you're planning on upgrading your insulation and windows, and speaking from personal experience those two things make a huge difference. They're also somewhat expensive to do, so I'm guessing you're planning on doing these changes within a year.
In which case, you only need this window A/C for about 2-3 months. You might as well go with the cheapest one and save the money. Just make sure to get something to seal the door too so the cold air doesn't leak out.
Most window air conditioners come from like 4 factories anyhow. Only if you're planning on keeping it around for years do you want to look for something specific.
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I don't have one of that type, so I haven't contacted them. I was thinking about getting a unit like that, but then found out why they weren't in stock anywhere.
I think the lack of drain was intentional so that the water wiuld splash up on the condenser coil. An AC unit generates a lot more water than a refrigerator though, so I think any design with a condensate basin below the condenser coil will have mold problems. The other issue is they didn't make the unit very serviceable, so opening it up to clean out mold sounds like a huge hassle. Draining the water away will mean the units won't be as efficient as originally designed, but mold can be a major health hazard.
Yes of course a fridge does not condensate nearly as much as a room A/C coil. Curious where you found information that says they purposefully designed it to not drain off. And how splashing water onto a coil would make it more efficient? Also, though I havnt done any deep search, from experience most window units are a hassle to access the coil for deep cleaning other than from through the filter. The midea unit is actually decent in accessing the entire face of the coil and fins can be cleaned by removing filter and with no tools opening up the entire face of the indoor unit (this would basically only be covered in dust) much better than older units I've tried to work on.
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Yes of course a fridge does not condensate nearly as much as a room A/C coil. Curious where you found information that says they purposefully designed it to not drain off. And how splashing water onto a coil would make it more efficient? Also, though I havnt done any deep search, from experience most window units are a hassle to access the coil for deep cleaning other than from through the filter. The midea unit is actually decent in accessing the entire face of the coil and fins can be cleaned by removing filter and with no tools opening up the entire face of the indoor unit (this would basically only be covered in dust) much better than older units I've tried to work on.
I don't have information specific to midea, so there is some speculation, but I do have a ge unit which does outright say that the water condensate is slung across the condenser coil to boost efficiency. And yes, my ge unit got really nasty and I ended up drilling a hole in the base of the condensate pan to drain all the water.
https://products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-support-search-content?contentId=16758
Heat pump efficiency is limited by the temperature delta across the compressor.
The larger the temperature delta, the less efficient a heat pump is. Evaporating water off the condenser coil drops the refrigerant temperature compared to air only and gives a small boost to efficiency. I don't think it's a big difference, but it's enough to be worthwhile doing if you can "get it for free." Unfortunately, a constantly cool and wet pool is a great breeding ground for mold and pathogens that you don't want airborne.As for cleaning ease, I based that off of comments (on reddit I think), recommending people push midea to pay for a technician to perform the fix because taking it apart for a thorough cleaning is a hassle. So I have no firsthand experience there and I'll defer to your judgement.
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While the dual hose ones are better, I agree that these all kind of suck because you have the compressor inside and it's always the loudest part of an AC.
The single-hosed ones literally suck...
...air out of the room. This inevitably leads to ingress of warm air from the outside through various crevices. But you know that already from this comment section. -
Even renting a house it’s in my lease I can’t use a window unit. Which sucks because our swamp cooler outputs into the living room in a way that makes it very difficult to get its air into the second bedroom.
What's their reasoning on no window units?
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What's their reasoning on no window units?
I’ve been told this everywhere I’ve rented with different reasons ranging from it’ll put undue stress on the sill, liability (non first floor apartment would’ve been bad if it fell out), and the current ones thought was they tend to leak water which can damage the pain and then damage the sill.
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I don't have information specific to midea, so there is some speculation, but I do have a ge unit which does outright say that the water condensate is slung across the condenser coil to boost efficiency. And yes, my ge unit got really nasty and I ended up drilling a hole in the base of the condensate pan to drain all the water.
https://products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-support-search-content?contentId=16758
Heat pump efficiency is limited by the temperature delta across the compressor.
The larger the temperature delta, the less efficient a heat pump is. Evaporating water off the condenser coil drops the refrigerant temperature compared to air only and gives a small boost to efficiency. I don't think it's a big difference, but it's enough to be worthwhile doing if you can "get it for free." Unfortunately, a constantly cool and wet pool is a great breeding ground for mold and pathogens that you don't want airborne.As for cleaning ease, I based that off of comments (on reddit I think), recommending people push midea to pay for a technician to perform the fix because taking it apart for a thorough cleaning is a hassle. So I have no firsthand experience there and I'll defer to your judgement.
Fascinating. The "slinger ring" holy shit I've definetly heard that sound on my previous GE. And very slightly in the midea unit but much less often. Maybe due to the U set up making it quieter/ harder to hear.
Or seeing as there is a recall, probably doesn't work as well on midea.Makes sense in regards to cooling the coil surface but yeah no doubt it won't be enough to evaporate all the moister and cause mold. Thanks for the info
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We have to buy a window unit for our house. We have Central AC but it's not keeping up and we can't afford to upsize it right now. So until then I'm researching which window units to buy. Any advice or anything to cut through all the marketing spam and AI copy that I have to wade thru?
I was in the same situation as you at my last house. Central AC was added to a 100 year old house but it was never enough. I got new windows put in, and that helped, but it still got to hot in the summer.
We got this U Shaped Midea window unit and that did the trick: https://www.midea.com/us/store/cooling-and-heating/window-air-conditioners/u-shaped-air-conditioner-ultra-quiet.MAW08U1QWT
It's better than a standard window unit because you can close the window nearly all the way, unlike standard window units that rely on those crappy plastic accordion things.
Best of luck.
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I was in the same situation as you at my last house. Central AC was added to a 100 year old house but it was never enough. I got new windows put in, and that helped, but it still got to hot in the summer.
We got this U Shaped Midea window unit and that did the trick: https://www.midea.com/us/store/cooling-and-heating/window-air-conditioners/u-shaped-air-conditioner-ultra-quiet.MAW08U1QWT
It's better than a standard window unit because you can close the window nearly all the way, unlike standard window units that rely on those crappy plastic accordion things.
Best of luck.
I have 3 of these and love them. Unfortunately there is a recall on them for mold (never had a problem with mold in my units) and I think because if it, they're really hard to find now. Amazon has pulled them from sales.
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This isn't actually necessarily true if you just need specific cooling.
If for instance, you just care about cooling your bedroom for sleeping, then it can be more efficient to install a window unit in just that room and let the rest of your house be warmer. A mini-split would be more efficient than a window unit for that role, but they're also a lot more expensive and permanent.
Yeah for new installs but service for the existing unit might be like $200 for a cleaning and it’s certainly going to be cheaper to run in the long run
Window units are built to fail, are mold prone, use an excessive amount of electricity comparatively (even the newer inverter ones) and a higher risk of injuring a person or damaging the building.
Also their smart features often entice people to install apps that track you to sell to advertisers. So not only are you buying an inferior product but they’re also capitalizing of spying on you.(tl/dr: fuck Frigidaire lol)
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Yeah for new installs but service for the existing unit might be like $200 for a cleaning and it’s certainly going to be cheaper to run in the long run
Window units are built to fail, are mold prone, use an excessive amount of electricity comparatively (even the newer inverter ones) and a higher risk of injuring a person or damaging the building.
Also their smart features often entice people to install apps that track you to sell to advertisers. So not only are you buying an inferior product but they’re also capitalizing of spying on you.(tl/dr: fuck Frigidaire lol)
wrote on last edited by [email protected]Yeah for new installs but service for the existing unit might be like $200 for a cleaning and it’s certainly going to be cheaper to run in the long run
No, it's not necessarily.
From an electricity usage standpoint, it's cheaper to inefficiently cool one room than it is to efficiently cool a whole house.
Cleaning it also may solve nothing, it's $200 on a chance of it solving the problem. If cleanliness wasn't the issue, then you just wasted $200. On the flip side, you can find a used window AC for $200 easily, or buy a new one for $400 and then sell it when you're done with it and get $200 back, and it is guaranteed to solve your problem assuming you're concerned with a specific room.
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We have to buy a window unit for our house. We have Central AC but it's not keeping up and we can't afford to upsize it right now. So until then I'm researching which window units to buy. Any advice or anything to cut through all the marketing spam and AI copy that I have to wade thru?
DO NOT BUY ONE THAT SITS IN YOUR ROOM. The ones that sit in the window are better because the heat is already outside instead of having to go through a tube.
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We have to buy a window unit for our house. We have Central AC but it's not keeping up and we can't afford to upsize it right now. So until then I'm researching which window units to buy. Any advice or anything to cut through all the marketing spam and AI copy that I have to wade thru?
get one rated for the room size.
I have one for an attic room that gets around 100°F without one. it's about 100sqft and I'm running a 9000BTU system. with the unit it stays around 71-74°.
stay away from "Mr cool". they've had lots of defects from factory.
I would get something local, probably Walmart. reason for that, if you have any problems you can just take it back.
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I have 3 of these and love them. Unfortunately there is a recall on them for mold (never had a problem with mold in my units) and I think because if it, they're really hard to find now. Amazon has pulled them from sales.
can confirm. mold was growing in mine.
look inside the blower when it's off. mine had all these little white dots of mold that looked like dust, but it was definitely mold.
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Don't do it at this time of year.
This is a fact. It’s absolutely the highest priced time to buy any air conditioning. Everyone is buying so they have zero incentive for true sales.
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The single-hosed ones literally suck...
...air out of the room. This inevitably leads to ingress of warm air from the outside through various crevices. But you know that already from this comment section.They still work better than no AC. Your costs just go up more than with a dual hose.
Source: had a single hose version and couldn’t sleep without it.
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Can't improve insulation? Did you mean can? If so, yes, that's on the to do list. We need better windows too.
Yes, those are good tips thanks.
wrote on last edited by [email protected]You should have at least 16” of insulation in your attic. Check for regional guidelines on this as it depends on where you live.
Insulation settles over time so the older the home the less your insulation has air gaps that do the work. This is the lowest cost form of improving your situation and the cost is mostly in labor since it’s hot work. Buy insulation yourself and do the work yourself to save a LOT. You can rent insulation blowers from big box hardware stores and they usually have deals where if you buy a certain amount of insulation the rental is free. Early morning is the best as it’ll be the coolest, drink lots of electrolytes when you start sweating. New insulation has rolled ends so it’s not the super itchy type of yore. It’s not terrible and you’ll be glad you did it once it’s over. Having a hand is not essential but makes it a lot easier.
We insulated our garage with paper backed rolled insulation for 2x4s for not much more than $300 over a few months (I did the labor) and it improved the temp swings by ~40°. Absolutely great investment and it was super easy to do. All I needed was a stapler, tape measure, utility knife, a ladder, and myself.
Buy a meat thermometer and put it in your floor or ceiling vents. You should have a 20°F+ drop from what the room is at to what is coming out of your vents. This is known as a delta T (temperature difference). If it’s lower you need to get your AC checked out by a reputable company with warranties and guarantees. Chuck and truck is always a waste of time and money, they’re lower cost up front but you will regret it most of the time. If your system is 15 years or older you may need to get it replaced as repairs are often more costly than it’s worth and all newer system are much more efficient, saving you $ in the long term.
Duct sealing is another thing that can improve your AC issues. Most ducts leak 40% due to holes in joints etc. The air you want to get to the furthest part of your house isn’t getting there at its full extent. Look for companies that Aeroseal. This will be cheaper than a mini split but can be as effective. You’re looking at a few thousand depending on the size of your situation.
