WHERE ARE MY PRECISION SCREWDRIVERS
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Payed is incorrect, it is paid
No, they were stringing him out ....
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The main problem wthe the X shaped model is that there are so many different versions with different angles and points oe lack thereof that it can be hard to tell which is which at a glance, increasing the chance of stripping if you don't check for proper fit.
Not to mention you might be working on something where the prior person mixed and matched different screws head types on the same project!
It's not an X, it's a +. I will die on this hill.
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Robertson is incredible, in Canada it is often used to build outdoor patio for instance, it's magical to use, I love those screws
In new build stuff, I've actually been seeing a lot more torx.
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PZ2 go BRRRRRRRRRRR
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Payed is incorrect, it is paid
wrote on last edited by [email protected]Thank you for the correction. Give my regards to Muphry.
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It's not an X, it's a +. I will die on this hill.
And we will let you because no one cares.
Hey look Neatnit's corpse is getting eaten by birds. Well... they've got to eat something. What was it he died for again?
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This post did not contain any content.wrote on last edited by [email protected]
I can snap the heads of cheaply made screws or ones made from softer material like "brass" with a screwdriver let alone an impact driver.
If I am doing something with a lot of screws, say decking, then I will spend more on my screws simply because I want better quality if I am going to be fitting a few hundred in a day. I also want to know that if I come back to it in a few years that the screw will unscrew quickly when I come to it. Sure it can be a significant cost increase but the time and frustration saved makes it back.
Quality screwdrivers like Vessel Megadora or Wera or Swisstools or similar tend to cam out less than the pack of ten you got from the dollar store. Same with the hex bits for your impact or drill driver.
Last test I heard had Roberson above Torx for reducing cam out, but if you camming Torx that easily I would just switch to an actual hex headed screw if it needs that much torque to tighten.
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It's not an X, it's a +. I will die on this hill.
wrote on last edited by [email protected]You are technically correct, whoch is the best kind of correct!
I just hadn't woken up to remember keyboards had a plus sign.
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Torx ftw
wrote on last edited by [email protected]Just yesterday I stripped a T25 because I only had a T20 bit on me and underestimated how tightly it was screwed in. Even though it was completely stripped with the T20, the design is so good that using my drill and pressing down with the proper T25 got it out. No screw extractor required!
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It's not an X, it's a +. I will die on this hill.
There's half-dozens of us!
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This literally happened to a screw I have in my literal body
Jfc that is not something you want to hear. When your doctor has to call for handyman Hal there is a problem
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This post did not contain any content.wrote on last edited by [email protected]
If it needs to be tight, Robertson or Torx is the only way. The benefit of Robertson over Torx is that it is pretty much immediately clear if the bit fits properly or not. I have stripped too many Torx that were in a place that required a human with an extra elbow and a second wrist to reach, that I thought were t20 but were t25, for example. I keep thinking I’ve learned my lesson.
I keep meaning to buy sets of Phillips, Pozi, and JIS, but never manage to time a stripped screw with a tool sale.
The only thing worse than + is -, and even that is situational.
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This post did not contain any content.wrote on last edited by [email protected]
If you do this you have two options. Either put a piece of rubber from a balloon, latex glove etc between the screw and the screwdriver. Or use a hacksaw to put a slot in the top of the screw and use a flathead screwdriver.
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The main problem wthe the X shaped model is that there are so many different versions with different angles and points oe lack thereof that it can be hard to tell which is which at a glance, increasing the chance of stripping if you don't check for proper fit.
Not to mention you might be working on something where the prior person mixed and matched different screws head types on the same project!
wrote on last edited by [email protected]Pozidriv and Phillips are quite easy to tell apart imo
But JIS and Phillips blows
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Pozidriv and Phillips are quite easy to tell apart imo
But JIS and Phillips blows
If people know what they are looking for and the screws weren't painted over...
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Torx needs to become the standard for screws. They are just better in every way.
In wood yes. But please keep them off my bike. You suddenly really start to enjoy the ball end of your Allen keys when working in tight spots and torx has none of that (and some brand are starting to use more and more torx on their models)
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If you do this you have two options. Either put a piece of rubber from a balloon, latex glove etc between the screw and the screwdriver. Or use a hacksaw to put a slot in the top of the screw and use a flathead screwdriver.
Arrooooo
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If you do this you have two options. Either put a piece of rubber from a balloon, latex glove etc between the screw and the screwdriver. Or use a hacksaw to put a slot in the top of the screw and use a flathead screwdriver.
Another option for smaller screws is just to drill out the head, it will let go.
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If you do this you have two options. Either put a piece of rubber from a balloon, latex glove etc between the screw and the screwdriver. Or use a hacksaw to put a slot in the top of the screw and use a flathead screwdriver.
YES BECOME FLATHEAD.
ive also used torqx and pounded them in. Like a poor mans easy out, works about 20% of the time -
If you do this you have two options. Either put a piece of rubber from a balloon, latex glove etc between the screw and the screwdriver. Or use a hacksaw to put a slot in the top of the screw and use a flathead screwdriver.
There is a third: manual impact driver
