WHERE ARE MY PRECISION SCREWDRIVERS
-
Looking at this makes me physically ill
worse when it happens to small screws in electronics. shit like this makes you want to just smash your laptop
-
Another option for smaller screws is just to drill out the head, it will let go.
Had to do this on a buddies Harley…
Tried the ‘cut a slot’ method for a flathead too…broke the screw head in half trying to take it out. Drilled it out, head popped off, and was able to take the shaft out by hand. Those screws are made of play-doh…not metal.First oil change on a new to him bike but some numbnuts but the crank case cover bolts in like a gorilla…torque spec is 7 ft-lbs(9.5 Nm). That’s like a quarter turn past finger tight. It just needs to compress the seal so oil doesn’t spill out.
-
JIS is definitely a step up from Phillips, as long as you have the right bits and can tell them apart. I run into JIS a lot in bicycle maintenance. But neither of them hold a candle to metric hex. It's really hard to strip a hex bit until you're being a total idiot.
wrote on last edited by [email protected]I've done it. It was a grub screw - so the hex was entirely within the shaft - that was surrounded by loctite, and frankly I never had a chance to get it out. It went circular immediately, just with hand pressure. I ended up having to use a screw extractor.
I was told this was a common problem on ARRMA vehicles and that I should get a more precise type of hex driver. They were expensive but I haven't had the problem since.
-
This post did not contain any content.
That looks like a really shitty screw to begin with.
-
worse when it happens to small screws in electronics. shit like this makes you want to just smash your laptop
FRAMEWORK. FRAMEWORK LAPTOPS. WHY MUST THEY MAKE THEM SO WEEEEEEAAAAAAKKKKK
-
I've done it. It was a grub screw - so the hex was entirely within the shaft - that was surrounded by loctite, and frankly I never had a chance to get it out. It went circular immediately, just with hand pressure. I ended up having to use a screw extractor.
I was told this was a common problem on ARRMA vehicles and that I should get a more precise type of hex driver. They were expensive but I haven't had the problem since.
wrote on last edited by [email protected]OK yeah that sucks. I've run into hex grubs screws before, but on brake levers which I'm pretty sure have to meet compliance stuff like ISO safety standards so the hardware was higher quality.
-
OK yeah that sucks. I've run into hex grubs screws before, but on brake levers which I'm pretty sure have to meet compliance stuff like ISO safety standards so the hardware was higher quality.
Also though these are RC size, 5mm screws, so much easier to kill. Apparently the issue is most hex drivers are slightly undersized, and ARRMA like to loctite their axle grub screws to hell.
-
YES BECOME FLATHEAD.
ive also used torqx and pounded them in. Like a poor mans easy out, works about 20% of the timeIf people don't know the trick above then they definitely don't know what easy out is lol. It does work and is under rated.
-
The Nordics are far ahead in this. Torx everywhere.
what the fuck where, all i see is philips and hex
-
Phillips is identified, in muricuh, by just the cross pattern hole.
JIS is a cross patterned hole, with a separate round indentation in one of the cross corners.
They are very close to each other, but not exact, and can round eachother out.
I have yet to strip any Phillips head screws with my Vessel bits.
-
I know what you mean. I have a few older Hondas and there is jis everywhere. I'm talking jis on the dash, jis on the cluster, jis on the sunvisor, seat track, sunroof... Jis on the gotdamnt headliner. The things are practically covered in jis.
Visit the Vessel (Made in Japan) website. I know how you feel, I have a Nissan Leaf.
-
I know what you mean. I have a few older Hondas and there is jis everywhere. I'm talking jis on the dash, jis on the cluster, jis on the sunvisor, seat track, sunroof... Jis on the gotdamnt headliner. The things are practically covered in jis.
It took all the way till the last sentence before I got the joke.
-
If it needs to be tight, Robertson or Torx is the only way. The benefit of Robertson over Torx is that it is pretty much immediately clear if the bit fits properly or not. I have stripped too many Torx that were in a place that required a human with an extra elbow and a second wrist to reach, that I thought were t20 but were t25, for example. I keep thinking I’ve learned my lesson.
I keep meaning to buy sets of Phillips, Pozi, and JIS, but never manage to time a stripped screw with a tool sale.
The only thing worse than + is -, and even that is situational.
The only thing worse than more is less, and even that is situational. Sounds cool.
-
I hate Phillips screws. For this very reason.
Get a JIS screwdriver. Life changing.
-
It took all the way till the last sentence before I got the joke.
I was hoping it would be dry laugh creeper.
-
I hate Phillips screws. For this very reason.
You just need the right size screwdriver
-
You just need the right size screwdriver
You're right that phillips screws are prone to cam out if theres a size mismatch, but it doesn't stop there. Apply too much torque or have a misshapen screw head or bit and you're out of luck.
-
am i the only person with a set of screw extractor bits?
wrote on last edited by [email protected]I got a set, tried to use them twice and they failed both times. In the first try the bolt metal was too hard for the extrator to bite in in any reasonable time drilling and the second time the screw was too soft and the extractor stripped the hole the extractor makes attempting to extract.
-
The Nordics are far ahead in this. Torx everywhere.
Ironic, IKEA is married to PZ2. Which to be fair is a fine standard (aside from the fact that unaware people tend to confuse it with PH2 then wonder why their screws are stripped), it's just annoying that I have to switch my drill from T20 to PZ2 to build IKEA furniture.
-
I was hoping it would be dry laugh creeper.
Lol mission accomplished
