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Loophole

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved ADHD memes
adhd
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  • O [email protected]

    Kinda, but they all need to be done before I can start printing again. I replaced the entire hot-end, so I basically have to redo everything:

    • Rotation distance (distance traveled per one rotation of motor)
    • Hot-end PID calibration (controls heating)
    • Z-offset (how far above the bed the nozzle is from when the z-stop triggers)
    • Resonance compensation (printing fast can cause ghosting in the prints from resonance frequency)
    • Pressure advance (reduces nozzle ooze)

    And all of that is just so I can print a mount to use a magnetic z-stop (normal is contact probe), then I get to do it all over again.

    Then I need to do temperature and acceleration towers for each filament material.

    U This user is from outside of this forum
    U This user is from outside of this forum
    [email protected]
    wrote last edited by
    #21

    Must the magnetic z-stop mount be printed on your machine specifically?

    If yes; do a calibration step or two each week and you'll be done by xmas

    If no; print one at a local makerspace/public library then do a calibration step or two each week and you'll be done by Thanksgiving!

    O 1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • O [email protected]

      Kinda, but they all need to be done before I can start printing again. I replaced the entire hot-end, so I basically have to redo everything:

      • Rotation distance (distance traveled per one rotation of motor)
      • Hot-end PID calibration (controls heating)
      • Z-offset (how far above the bed the nozzle is from when the z-stop triggers)
      • Resonance compensation (printing fast can cause ghosting in the prints from resonance frequency)
      • Pressure advance (reduces nozzle ooze)

      And all of that is just so I can print a mount to use a magnetic z-stop (normal is contact probe), then I get to do it all over again.

      Then I need to do temperature and acceleration towers for each filament material.

      umbrella@lemmy.mlU This user is from outside of this forum
      umbrella@lemmy.mlU This user is from outside of this forum
      [email protected]
      wrote last edited by [email protected]
      #22

      that touch sensor is very good to make sure you don't need to calibrate z offset. saves you from having to fiddle with it, and always makes perfect 1st layers. excellent upgrade.

      O 1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • stamets@lemmy.worldS [email protected]
        This post did not contain any content.
        T This user is from outside of this forum
        T This user is from outside of this forum
        [email protected]
        wrote last edited by
        #23

        This actually works for me. I will add another level though, sometimes instead of going back to the original project I start it over again because of something I learned in the second project giving me a better approach to the first. Mostly do this with programming

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        • stamets@lemmy.worldS [email protected]
          This post did not contain any content.
          iavicenna@lemmy.worldI This user is from outside of this forum
          iavicenna@lemmy.worldI This user is from outside of this forum
          [email protected]
          wrote last edited by
          #24

          huh I think I have been unconsciously using this and it actually works, somewhat...

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          • B [email protected]

            Didn't work. Now have 50 unfinished projects. Help.

            E This user is from outside of this forum
            E This user is from outside of this forum
            [email protected]
            wrote last edited by
            #25

            I'll help you, but I started helping someone else.

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            • umbrella@lemmy.mlU [email protected]

              that touch sensor is very good to make sure you don't need to calibrate z offset. saves you from having to fiddle with it, and always makes perfect 1st layers. excellent upgrade.

              O This user is from outside of this forum
              O This user is from outside of this forum
              [email protected]
              wrote last edited by
              #26

              You mean the PINDA touch sensor?

              umbrella@lemmy.mlU 1 Reply Last reply
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              • U [email protected]

                Must the magnetic z-stop mount be printed on your machine specifically?

                If yes; do a calibration step or two each week and you'll be done by xmas

                If no; print one at a local makerspace/public library then do a calibration step or two each week and you'll be done by Thanksgiving!

                O This user is from outside of this forum
                O This user is from outside of this forum
                [email protected]
                wrote last edited by
                #27

                I mean, it doesn't have to be, but printing upgrades for your printer is part of the fun. But my job does have a maker space I could use.

                Honestly the calibration would only take an hour or so, I just have to get around to it. The longest part will be setting up Klipper on my pi4 to replace the less powerful ODROID I'm currently using, because I plan on starting from scratch with the config.

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                • O [email protected]

                  You mean the PINDA touch sensor?

                  umbrella@lemmy.mlU This user is from outside of this forum
                  umbrella@lemmy.mlU This user is from outside of this forum
                  [email protected]
                  wrote last edited by
                  #28

                  yes, or others. there are probably better alternatives but this will already help a lot.

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